Town and Country - to define a community

Greetings!

It is true.  I have been too busy to blog lately.  Why, you ask?  Several reasons, listed for your understanding:

1. I am the mother of a soon to be 4 year old.... who is now a preschooler at Wiggles and Giggles, started First Lutheran Church school this fall, and is soon to be a Badlands Gymnastics Tot (just like his Momma, who was in the very first class when the club first started in Watford City back in the early 1980's).
2. We ranch and are therefore small business owners and operators.
3. I recently went back to work selling my time and talents (debatable as to what they really are and what their value is, if any) to an agri-service business essential to our rural, ranching based community.  That gig started the end of August.
4. I have signed on to a committee that raises funds for the continual improvement of the McKenzie County Health Care System (which includes the McKenzie County Hospital and Clinic, the Good Shepard Home and Horizon's Assisted Living, and the Healthy Hearts Wellness Center).  We are currently raising funds for our upcoming New Years Eve Event, Boots and Bling which will benefit the Clinic and it's need for equipment to improve efficiency to serve the rapidly growing population base of the county.
5. My RLND (Rural Leadership North Dakota) project is in full swing.... and thus the primary topic for today, along with some thought provoking ideas on defining and valuing 'community' (which might lead to a bit of venting on the Bakken play and the North Dakota state government's role in my need for venting).

I started a NDSU Extension adult leadership class in December of 2011.  It has been a wonderful experience and the 18 months are proving to fly by.  One of the goals for the class beyond building a network of rural community leaders in North Dakota (to strengthen the voice of rural North Dakota) was to select an individual project.  The project was  to be one of personal interest which would bring a voice to each participants defined community.  Seems simple, but it isn't that cut and dry.  I am a part of many communities:  the Angus and Quarter Horse COMMUNITIES, a local, state, and national ranching COMMUNITY, the Tang, Best, Dahl, Levang, and Hovet (our families) COMMUNITIES, the western North Dakota COMMUNITY, the McKenzie County COMMUNITY, the Watford City COMMUNITY........ you get my point. 

After much thought and deliberation, the community that I felt needed a voice was our local geographical community of Watford City and McKenzie County.

NEWS & VENTING ALERT.......  Oil has been found here and although it has ensured the short term success of Main Street Watford City businesses, of mineral owners and of surface owners willing to sell their land at the current values, it has also put great stress on many folks and resources caught in the cross hairs of this modern day gold rush.  Currently, oil is king and it sets the standards for almost everything locally from the average commute times on the roads (which for the most part have doubled), to the crime rate (which I don't know what to say about that as it was nearly non-existent prior to the Bakken boom), to the starting hourly wage employers pay for basic employee skills (which are safety netted on a federal level in the rest of the country, but need not be here with only 2.7% unemployment).  Have I mentioned that although 8% unemployment is not good for a country, 2.7% unemployment is not good for a COMMUNITY.

Back to COMMUNITY.... I LOVE Watford City and McKenzie County.  From the time I packed my bags in the trunk of my Honda Accord and headed to NDSU in the fall of 1993 there was a constant pull back to this place.  Back to the community that celebrates it's youth and supported their endeavors.  Back to the place where champions are made through hard work, community support, and steady coaching and guidance by the best teachers and coaches in their fields.  Back to the place where our ranch just so happens to be.  The beautiful and secluded badlands near where Cherry Creek flows into the Little Missouri.  Where TR in his ranching days chased down and apprehended boat thieves and near where the first homestead claim in McKenzie County was made.  Where my sister and I climbed clay buttes and rode our horses all summer long, not thinking about the fact that our kids might not have these same opportunities.  Not realizing that things might change.......

So here I am.  Making sure that our story is told.  Making sure that this way of life, which has made 'champions in life' be told and celebrated.  Making sure that if people come here for fame and fortune or for a fresh start, that they understand this place is more than that.  That it is people who care about their neighbors.  That it is people who care about their youth.  That it is people who care about their land and where they came from.  That it is people who care about their community.... We care so much that this change hurts.  It is hard.  We worry about our families, our neighbors, our community servants.  We hold strong, together, for a quite moment, a peaceful presence, a cherished memory of what our community was.  And then we fight, together, for a bright future and a strong, reinvented community.  One, that although it will look different, will still value, cherish and celebrate what makes us US... and thus makes us COMMUNITY!

Media Men, Inc - Cody Schimick and Dan Lee (both WCHS class of 1991 graduates) were back for a week mid-September filming for the documentary, 'Cowboys and Crude - the story of McKenzie County'.  This project is primarily being funded by the Watford City Roughrider Fund, a half percent sales tax which benefits the Watford City community through funding community projects.  The goal of the documentary is to provide web support to the county's website for professional and tourism recruitment by creating clips for the website.  Additionally, a high quality, edited, voiced over documentary will tell the 'story of us'.

On the first day, we followed Mayor, Brent Sanford around and interviewed him.  The second day we watched the Watford City Wolves football team win their Homecoming game and upset the Velva Aggies.  Throughout the week we interviewed many people and listened to them tell their stories of family and community during the quiet times and the lean years.  I listened to my grandma tell of her childhood, growing up in south McKenzie County in a tar paper shack with her folks and siblings.  She was born in 1918 and she told of hard work, tough winters, determination, family, community, education, how her parents met and why they came to McKenzie County.  It was for the same reason many are coming here now.  For opportunity and fresh starts.

We learned of the strong ranching heritage of the west river country, of the making of the federal grasslands, of the great depression, of the previous two oil booms and what the Risser meant to McKenzie County.  We visited with Coach Fridley and gained insight into what motivates him to keep on inspiring young men to dig deeper for 'team' and protect that blind side.  We learned that when the last lynching in North Dakota took place, it was for reasons other than revenge.

Cody and Dan capturing the ground breaking of an income based housing project which was a combined effort of non-profit, private business (MBI) and government entities for the community of Watford City.  This project should provide much needed affordable housing for nurses, teachers and other essential service providers who are currently competing head to head with oil industry employees for housing.

Cody setting up for an interview with Watford City Mayor, Brent Sanford.

Checking the lighting before Mayor Sanford's interview.

Filming of the McKenzie County Heritage Days.  The Leiseth family provided the horse power for the thrashing demonstration.

Marlene Levang-Thompson overlooking her family land and cattle.  She shared with us insight into the first two oil booms in McKenzie County.



Dan, myself and Cody wrapping up the week after our last interview.  It was a great week.

I have always wondered why when others I grew up with were aspiring to "get out of this place", why I did not feel this way.  I can tell you that beyond all else, I needs to be close to my roots, which are here.  Whether it is out of fear of losing them, or true, deep love for them, I do not know.  I suspect it is both.  I KNOW beyond all else, I need to be near this place.  Not even the temporary nuisances (which will pass) created by this current Bakken boom can tare me away..... 

Doctor Dare and his side kick, Selkirk

And so the last two weeks of August and the first part of September have been 'gathering' time at the ranch.  When our calves are weaned from their mothers in early October it is important that the calves have had their vaccination shots and titers for immunity have had time to build in their system prior to them being weaned.  So we gather all the pairs, give the calves their vaccinations and kick them back out to grass until October.

In addition to gathering pairs, we also gather all of our heifer pastures during this time and Dr. Hovde of High Plains Vet Clinic in Sidney, MT comes out and ultrasounds them so we know their 'due' date and if they are having a boy or a girl (heifer or bull) calf next spring. We market bred heifers for 'replacement' purposes to other cattlemen in addition to our replacements for our own cow herd.

One of the contracts we held this year was for 20 of our bred heifers to be delivered to Missouri River Feeders north of Mandan by September 7th to begin their quarantine period before being flown to the country of Kazakhstan (KAZ).

In the process of riding the pasture where the 'KAZ' heifers were to gather them, my dad and Pete's dad, Lyle reported back that our good neighbor Perry Ecker had a bull in with the heifers that had foot rot.  Foot rot is a bacteria infection that gets into the foot of cattle usually through cracks in their hoof wall.  So, the big bull couldn't walk and he was in a place where pickup and stock trailer could not access him due to the rough terrain.

It was time for creativity.  The next morning, Dr. Pedersen and Dr. Gullickson from the Watford City Vet Clinic came out to meet Dr. Hovde and pick his brain on the fine art of sexing and aging embryos through ultrasound technology.  When I told Dr. Pedersen about the bull, he was up for the field trip with his tranquilizer gun and his portable field medicine box.

The missions crew members:  Selkirk Pedersen (Dr. Pedersen's son), Dr. Pedersen, Lee Murphy (my brother-in-law who provided these photos as I did not participate), Lyle Best and Kurt Hovet (the scouts and guides)....

After getting close with 4-wheelers and a big red, packing in the rest of the way to the sick bull.

Loading the tranquilizer gun and treatment syringes.

Selkirk lining out the 18 yard shot on Dr. Pedersen's soon to be patient.

Dr Dare HOPING the tranquilizer is fully effective.

It worked.  Multiple injection sites were required due to the large dosage (this 3 year old bull weighs over a ton) for a treatment plan that provides pain and inflammation relief, long term bacterial and short term bacterial control.

Taking a temperature of the big bull.

Packing up and preparing the head back home.

We enjoyed a fast rising moon that night out on Sue and Lyle's new screened in porch.

My hat's off to Dr. Dare and his side kick!  Glad to have them in the community!












Blue collar Kyle

I take great pride in watching our son, Kyle grow.  One of the many things that truly amaze me is how important it is for him to 'help'.  He wants to be part of the team and he understands how important productivity is.  He is a busy little beaver.  Labor Day was laborious around here and he was in the middle of it all.

In the morning, he went down to the Rough Creek pasture and helped his dad and grandpa fix a waterline leak.

Kyle and Grandpa Lyle digging up the leaky water line to be spliced.

Grandpa Lyle gave him the long handled shovel and he is very proud of it!

Down 'stream' from the leak.

Oops.... Didn't stay upright.

When you gotta go, you gotta go, muddy or not!
 

The evening brought moving replacement heifers back out to grass after ultra sounding them.  Kyle in the drivers seat of Hoss.

He has good hands already.

We both fit in Grandpa Kurt's old roping saddle.

My view from the back seat.

An excellent close to Labor Day 2012.

He is one rein away from flying solo, but that will probably wait until next year.

Supervising the gate as the heifers head back out to the north RS pasture.

So here is to our 'little hand' and Labor Day 2012!

Superman wears Dan Brown pajamas!

So the filly that went through the stapling surgery two weeks ago was having issues with rolling to the outside of her foot and uneveningly wearing her hoof down on the outside.  This issue was reducing her probablity of a successful outcome.

I called our most wonderful farrier, Dan Brown last week.  I gave him her treatment schedule (which was rebandaging every 2nd day) and determined that either Tuesday or Friday of this past week were the two prospective days.  The day was set.  Friday it was.

After consultation from Dr. Voight (who performed the surgery), an appropriate dose of Dormasedan, a little more text book research on Dan's part (who did I mention, is an excellent farrier and horseman with a great 'boots on the ground' additude), we (mostly Dan) did an outter heal to mid toe 1/2 inch buildup on the stapled leg.

The left leg that was stapled.  As you can see, it is rolling to the outside.

Rasping the first application of the 'super fast set up liquid horse shoe compound'.

Smoothing the liquid shoe on the outside sole.

Rasping the second application.

The liquid shoe compound and applicator.

I typically don't get really excited about 'stuff', but after I asked Dan if he could help this little filly, his joking response to me was, "Vawnita, Superman wears Dan Brown pajamas to bed!".... and then he got serious and said, "Truely, I think we can help her and I would love to give it a try".

This procedure turned out so well I will say "DAN BROWN REALLY IS SUPERMAN"!

A trip to the O.R.

Greetings from Elkhorn Creek Ranch near the epicenter of the Bakken oil formation.

I took a road trip to Bismarck in between logging 30 hours of saddle time over a 5 day period last week (and that would be 'butt in saddle' hours only).  We have starting gathering for pre-conditioning (administered 6 weeks prior to weaning) calf shots.  Another topic for another post.  Bottom line, lots of riding.

So, last Friday I loaded up the mare we call 'Gabby' and her 2012 filly, the only one of the colt crop this year.  She had been tentatively diagnosed with trauma to the cannon bone growth plate on the inside of her left hide leg, but we needed X-rays to verify this.  And if verified, a large animal surgery room and surgeon to perform the 'stapling' procedure would too be needed.

So it was off to Missouri Valley Vet Clinic on the east side of Bismarck. Several of the veterinarians at this clinic studied pre-vet at NDSU when I was there for my BS, Dr. Voight being one of them.

The two Veterinary Technicians that assisted Dr. Voight in capturing the x-rays of the filly's leg.  Janelle sporting leopard print and Jayme in the zebra print radiology apron.

Dr. Russ Voight confirming the field diagnosis - growth plate trauma / calcification.

After making the educated decision on a treatment plan with all the good information provided by the films and knowledge on growth rates and anatomy with respect to age, the decision was made to proceed with a surgery known as 'stapling'.  A 1 to 2 inch incision is made at the point of the growth plate on the side experiencing rapid growth in an attempt to slow the growth down on that side (in this case, the outside).  This gives the slow growing side (on this case, the inside) a chance to catch up..... helping the leg return to the straight position it was in prior to the trauma (suspected to be getting stepped on while sleeping in the pasture or being kicked by one of the other mares).

Prepping by Janelle, Dr. Voight's Vet Tech. - covering the hoof (a source of contamination) with a rubber glove and then begining to scrub the incision area.

Draping the incision area and blocking the leg for stability.

Making the incision and fitting the staple over the growth plate.

Inserting the staple over the growth plate.

Suturing the incision.

Staple placement confirmation.

The fully padded surgery room with a hydraulic table.

After returning home with this little patient, the treatment plan continued with pain management through medication and sanitary maintenance with every other day bandage replacements.  She also has one more dose of long acting antibiotics to keep possible infection at bay.  There is light at the end of the tunnel.  Now, lets hope for rapid growth in the third month of this filly's growth before her little growth plate closes.

I'll keep you posted on her progress!

Now there's a good feller! (written August 26, 2012)

Blaine Schaible - March 14, 1948 - August 26, 2011

http://www.watfordcitynd.com/?id=43&nid=1293

It was a year ago today that I received the phone call from Carla Schaible that Blaine had just been killed in an accident involving a horse...

Blaine and Carla were great family friends of ours.  When Blaine first moved to Watford City during the oil boom of the 70's, he lived in my Grandma and Grandpa Hovet's basement apartment before moving his family to the area.  That is how we first met Blaine and shortly after, Carla and the kids - Rhonda, David and Shana.

I still remember in those days following Blaine's death, Carla provided comfort to all those who loved Blaine. She was amazing and strong, gracious and brave through those darkest hours and she still is today. It helped to have that comfort, but for the past year, every event at the ranch has been a constant reminder that Blaine is no longer with us in flesh. For those who don't share the unique interest in or have a passion for ranching and making livelihoods tending to livestock and land, it is hard to understand. But for those few who know this 'code of the west', you know you can be in a room full of interesting people, but feel completely alone. On the other hand, if in that room, you find through conversation those other 'fellers' that 'know' and 'share' this code, you feel connected to them, engaged by them, supported by them and most of all, understood. Blaine shared that code. He was known to be a mechanic by trade, but a true cowboy by heart.

The last three or so years of his life, Blaine spent a lot of time at the ranch. He was a great hand and an even better friend.  We miss him.

So on this evening of the one year anniversary of his passing from this world, and now having been through each 'ranching' season of the year with out Blaine, here is a tribute to a 'Good Feller' as shared by Jarvis Sorenson as Blaine's funeral:

Four Little Words

Four little words have stuck in my mind
From the time I was just a small child
“There’s a good feller” is what he would say
When he talked of the men he admired

I remember those men he talked about
Sure ‘nuff cowboys, tough, but kind
They said what they meant and meant what they said
These men are gettin’ harder to find

“There’s a good feller,” meant he was true to his word
That’s all you expect of a man
You knew for sure he was proud to meet you
By the genuine shake of his hand

“There’s a good feller,” meant you could depend
On this man no matter the task
Never got too tough, too cold, or too late
For his help, all you need do is ask

“There’s a good feller,” meant he had a light hand
Be it with horses or cattle or crew
He spent most of his life learning this cowboy trade
And he’d be honored to teach it to you

“There’ a good feller” meant don’t ask him to do
What ain’t on a true and honest track
He knows it’s easier to keep a good reputation
Than it is to try to build one back

“There’s a good feller,” meant he’s a fair-minded man
He helped write cowboyin’s unwritten laws
He won’t ask you to do what he wouldn’t do
Yet knows, at times, the short end you’ll draw

“There’s a good feller,” meant, when he’s down on his luck
He can still hold his head way up high
‘Cause he did his best and gave it his all
He knows with faith and God’s help he’ll get by

“There’s a good feller,” just four little words
And their meaning won’t run all that deep
But when Dad would use ‘em to describe certain men
You knew they were at the top of the heap

“There’s a good feller,” just four little words
But they’ve always been favorites of mine
If after my trails end, my name’s brought up
“There’s a good feller” would suit me just fine
© Jay Snider, All rights reserved

http://www.jaysnider.net/index.htm

Post Script - As all good procrastinator do, I sat down to blog this tribute a few short hours before wanting to post it.  When I went to Jay Snider's website for FOUR LITTLE WORDS and found the copyright, I immediately emailed him for permission to print it.  He responded to my request with gracious permission to print his pieces and added that after reading the blog, this next piece too might be one for this moment.  I read it and believe that Blaine would love it too.

Of Horses and Men

Some are blessed with tranquil passing

while others met a tragic end.

Truth is, it's never easy

when you've lost a trusted friend.

As horses go, it's sometimes told

in simple words that cowboys use.

He darn sure was a good one.

He’s the kind you hate to lose.

He’s the kind you'd ride the river with,

roam the canyons and the breaks.

In rough country and wild cattle,

he’d be the one you’d take.

His efforts weren’t ruled by stature.

With him you’d finish what you’d start.

His limits were governed only

by the dimension of his heart.

His expectations were simple,

merely fairness from a friend.

But when he’d feel the need to run,

don't try to fence him in.

Pure poetry in motion

as across the plains he’d fly.

A tried and true compadre

in a seasoned cowboy’s eye.

His courage was unmatched by mortal men

from conquistadors to kings.

Cowboys sing his praises

at roundups in the spring.

Ain’t it strange how thoughts of horses lost

mirror those of men passed on.

And though they’ve gone to glory

their spirit’s never gone.

Sometimes simple words seem best

when final words we choose.

He darn sure was a good one.

He’s the kind you hate to lose.

Copyright: Jay Snider 2004 All rights reserved

  

Back to school...

Greetings from Elkhorn Creek Ranch near the epicenter of the Bakken oil formation.

It is true.  It is back to school time.  Although Kyle is not a school age child yet, he starts preschool this year at Wiggles and Giggles.  So when Tessa, the owner and manager of his child care facility called to confirm his enrollment today, it was a firm reminder that 'back to school' is upon us.  Shortly after that phone call, Brad sent a text letting me know that he was on his way to NDSU with classes starting tomorrow.  Yes, it is back to school everywhere in North Dakota.

In addition to these affirmative communications, the seasonal changes in the weather have too, been obvious the past three weeks.  The days are getting shorter (where I actually get to see the sun rise on the mornings without an alarm clock) and the nights are getting cooler and crisp. 

And with that, in flow the memories of my past back to school days at WCHS and NDSU.  In my high school days, basketball season had already been underway for a couple weeks with Two A Days creating lactic acid buildup in all the muscles, head to toe. The unpleasant taste of gun metal in the back of my mouth on the last few crunchers of morning practice are vivid.  It was the time to catch up on the summer happenings with friends, as back in those days summer trips to town were infrequent and land line phone communications were limited by parents.

In college it was the excitement of meeting and reuniting with the other 'aggies' in Bisonville.  Due to the fact that all of this was done before the age of cell phones and the Internet, it was necessary to attend the first Saddle and Sirloin Club meeting of the year to exchange land line phone numbers and physical addresses that were ours for the next 9 months.  Crazy.  I know.

So how does all of this reminiscing tie into ranch life in the middle of the craziest little wild west show around?  This past weekend, we had our cowboy style 'back to school' Two A Days or first S & S meeting of the year.  We (and the horses) took full advantage of the cool nights that August has to offer.  We hosted our annual horsemanship clinic weekend.  We did this right before school started to take advantage of the cool evenings which make for more alert and 'eager to learn' students (of the 4 legged variety) and to avoid the day time highs of July in North Dakota that can have a negative impact on everyone participating regardless of species.

I take pride in being a good student if the syllabus tickles my fancy and I have spent a lot of time riding under different clinicians to become a better horseman.  So every late August weekend that I can share these things I have learned over the years from the various horsemen I have ridden with - this is my adult age 'back to school'!

SIDE NOTE - So, shortly after we were married, Pete said to me, "We need a hobby".  Me, "We have one.  The horses".  Pete, "No.  That's a business.  I was thinking more like golfing or the lake or something".  Me, "I don't love golfing or the lake and I don't want to spend a lot of time or any money on those things.  The horses are what I love doing with any extra time there is and they are really easy to spend money on ;)".......... That was the end of golf and lake talk around our house.

This past weekend we had a great time sharing good conversation, wonderful food, and enjoying excellent friendships with our personal, Angus and Quarter Horse friends, The Tastad's from McCumber Angus Ranch near Rolette - Matt, Cynthia, Sydney, Eva and Nate.  Brett stayed home to hang out with his two Grandmas.  In addition to all that, there was schooling - on how to be good communicators with our four legged friends.  Once we all understand each other, that is when trust is built and magic happens!

Teachers are GREAT students.  Here, former high school science teacher and currently, mother of four horse crazy kids, Cynthia Tastad and Hoss watching Pete demonstrate hand positioning while working on side passing.

Eva Tastad and Lenny working on their side passing.  He's not sleeping, just conserving his energy.

Sidney and Pokey, Me and Dos, Cynthia and Hoss, Pete and Eva (the horse), Matt and Jake, Eva (the kid) and Lenny all working on 'lateral movement'.

 After the McCumber Crew loaded up and headed home on Sunday afternoon (with one more horse than they came with... Lenny is a lucky guy), we took a little family trip in the 'Big Red' to put mineral out for the cows.

A commercial recip cow in the Rough Creek pasture posing on one of the prettiest ridges of the ranch on a beautiful Sunday evening.

Kyle would be a good poster child for Vita Ferm mineral (and Lighting McQueen lunch boxes).

So from our end of the road, HAPPY BACK TO SCHOOL EVERYONE!